Lyskamm noseSchneedomsptize, better known as Naso del Lyskamm or Lyskamm Nose, is part of the Monte Rosa Massif, along the Italian-Swiss border between Gressoney and Zermatt. The Lyskamm Nose is known as one of the most beautiful ridges in the Alps.
As on any peak of Monte Rosa, a spectacular view surrounds you along this whole crossing: looking east you can see the main peaks of Monte Rosa with Punta Dufour and Nordend, Punta Gnifetti, Punta Parrot and Pyramide Vincent, to the west you can admire Castor, Pollux and Breithorn, to the north you will admire the summits of Eastern and Western Lyskamm, and finally the south, the view opens on the Mont Blanc massif and Gran Paradiso on the other side.
Program - itinerary
1st day: meeting with the mountain guide around mid-morning in Staffal (Gressoney). After a short material check, you will take the cable car to reach the Colle di Bettaforca. It will then take you about three hours walk to reach Rifugio Quintino Sella, where you will dine and sleep.
2nd day: after a good breakfast, you will begin your climb up the Felik Glacier, to then reach the Lys Glacier, and on south of Western and Eastern Lyskamm you will begin the diagonal climb along the west side of the Nose (40 ° steep) until reaching the Nose Pass. From there you will keep going left along a short slope and you will reach the snowy ridge, to then head to the right climbing an easy mixed ridge to reach the summit at 4,272 meters.
The descent route is the same until back down to Rifugio Quintino Sella. However, if you prefer to, you can go down the east side of the Nose until you reach the descent route on the Lys Glacier and reach the Rifugio Città di Mantova, where you can rest a little and stop for lunch. After lunch you will walk 40 minutes to reach the cable car at Punta Indren, which will take you back to Staffal (Gressoney).
about 4:30 hours to go - about 3 hours to get back to the hut.
Available on demand.
The price includes
• the assistance of an experienced mountain guide of our Team;
• use of equipment for the group (ropes, pitons, karabiners).
The price does not include
• Half-board treatment at the hut for yourself and the guide;
• Transport to Gressoney (possibility of collective transport by minibus if required);
• Cable car tickets for yourself (Beccaforca + Punta Indren);
• Crampons, harness and ice axe rental in case of need (it can be organized with the organization).
• hiking Goretex shoes suitable to crampons
• walking poles
Clothes and more
First layer on the skin:
• (merino wool) thermal/breathable long sleeve
• (merino wool) long thermal/breathable underwear
• woolen warm socks
• warm technical sweater
• waterproof & windproof hiking pants
• thin but warm duvet (to wear just in case of cold temperatures)
• waterproof & windproof Goretex jacket
• warm winter hat
• warm winter gloves
• suncream (protection factor 50+)
N.B. Consider a change for when you are back to the hut (you can leave some stuff at the hut).
• Difficulty and level required
Well-trained hikers or trekkers looking for new perspectives: the traverse of the Liskam Nose requires being able to walk with crampons, it is necessary to have resistance to about 8 hours of walk and a good acclimation to altitude, given the stay to above 3500 mt. It is recommended to train yourself appropriately and climb at altitude at least once before this climb.
• Group size
Maximum 2 people per Mountain Guide
June, July, August, September (depending on the snow conditions)
we recommend to have your own personal travel insurance, covering accident abroad and repatriation.
• How to reach Aosta Valley
- Via Chamonix.Mont Blanc – you can reach Chamonix by train from the main French airports or from Geneva airport – then you can reach Courmayeur – Aosta Valley through the Mont Blanc Tunnel (there are buses connections from Chamonix to Aosta Valley, but if you would like to be free to move it is advisable to rent a car).
- Via Geneva or Martigny – you can easily reach Martigny by train from Geneva airport - then you reach Aosta city center via the tunnel of Grand Saint Bernard (there are buses connections from Martigny to Aosta Valley, but if you would like to be free to move it is advisable to rent a car).
- Via Milan/Turin airport – rent a car directly to reach Aosta via the highway.
If you are coming only for the climb, we can organize you a taxi to pick you up or the mountain guide can come to pick you up on the road nearby Aosta (organization upon booking).