The Spaghetti Tour
Mountaineering in the Monte Rosa

Trip

THE MONTE ROSA TRAVERSE - THE SPAGHETTI TOUR

Spaghetti Tour is a week that should be on every mountaineer’s bucket list. It’s a trip that never disappoints and it will probably have you coming back to sample more…

With this peculiar name is known the Monte Rosa Tour, starting from Cervinia and arriving in Gressoney: we are making it shorter to simplify the logistic, to start from and return to Gressoney.

Many consider these mountains and valleys as the finest in the whole Alpine range. It is probably the most beautiful Alpine Route in the Alps with unique landscapes and a variety of incredible views: the gorgeous Monte Rosa Tour, known as Spaghetti Tour, is a crossing at altitude around the Lyskamm, Breithorn and Castore massifs, which allows you to reach different peaks above 4000 meters in just few days, comfortably sleeping in the cozy Monte Rosa huts, well known for the quality of their Italian food… Every day we will reach the summit of a 4000 peak, mostly following the itinerary of the famous "Mezzalama Trophy" sky race.

There are many variations that can be applied to the itinerary, which will be evaluated according to physical conditions and technical level of the group.

Program

The Spaghetti Tour in 4 days: the program

Day 1
Staffal - Colle di Bettaforca 2672 mt - Rifugio Quintino Sella 3585 mt

Vertical drop : + 1280 m
Duration: approximately 4 to 5 hours walk

Meeting in Staffal around 9:00 am in front of the Cable Car Ticket Station (possibility of group transport with the Guide - contact us for further information)

We park the cars in a parking lot where we will come back in 4 days at the end of our Monte Rosa Traverse (Mini Spaghetti Tour). We take the Staffal - Sant’Anna cable car and then a chairlift that takes us to the Bettaforca Pass.
At the top we will take the path that will lead us to the Quintino Sella Hut, the view on the Monte Rosa glaciers is magnificent: from there we will see the route of the Spaghetti Tour Traverse, which we are going to take the next day.
The walk to the hut begins on a good trail, to then becomes a little more technical before arriving at the Hut where the access looks like a Via Ferrata, a path with ladders and ropes to facilitate the way up. While preparing the equipment for the next day, your Guide will explain you the itinerary and the plan for the next day based on the weather forecast and the schedule choices.
The Refuge Quintino Sella has just been renovated, the refuge is very comfortable for its altitude, which facilitates acclimatisation, the view on the Monte Rosa glaciers is spectacular as of the Aosta Valley and Piedmont.

Day 2
Rifugio Quintino Sella 3585 mt. - Castore 4228 mt. - Rifugio Quintino Sella 3585 mt.

Vertical drop : + 643 m ; - 643 m
Duration: approximately 6 hours walk

The day is not very long so we will probably leave just before sunrise to enjoy the view and not to be cold.
The climb to Castore (4228 m) by the west wall begins on the glacier to then end by a rather tapered snow ridge: that's why the group for this Mountaineering Program can be composed of up to 2 people.
The descent will be on the same route to return to the Quintino Sella Hut (3585 mt).
After a little rest, we will have time to practice mountaineering rope techniques and the Guide will explain rescue techniques, in the event of a glacier accident in order to allow you to become more autonomous and to be more comfortable with handling a rope along this Spaghetti Tour - Monte Rosa Traverse.

Dinner and overnight at the Hut.

Day 3
RIFUGIO QUITINO SELLA 3585 mt - LYSKAMM NOSE (4200 mt) - RIFUGIO CITTA DI MANTOVA 3498 mt

Vertical drop : + 615 m ; 700 m
Duration: approximately 6 hours walk

5-day program

DAY 1
Gressoney - Colle di Bettaforca (2675 m) - Refuge Guide di Ayas (3400 m)

Vertical drop: + 1200 m and - 700 m
Duration: around 4 to 5 hours

Meeting with the mountain guide at 9am in Staffal, Gressoney. After a brief equipment check, we'll take the cable car up to Colle di Bettaforca. From here we descend into the Val d'Ayas to reach the Piani di Verra, where we take the path up to the Guide di Ayas hut.

DAY 2
Guide d'Ayas hut (3400m) - Pollux (4092 m)

Vertical drop: + 770 m and - 680 m
Duration: approximately 7 to 8 hours ascent (4 to 5 hours on the outward journey)

At first light, we climb the first rocky section to reach an altitude of 3980 m, where we tackle the small ferrata leading to the rocky balcony where the snow-covered ridge of the summit peak Pollux begins. Return by the same route, with a refreshing stop at the Guide d'Ayas refuge, where we'll spend the night again.

DAY 3
Guide d'Ayas refuge (3400 m) - Castor (4226 m) - Quintino Sella refuge (3585 m)

Vertical drop : + 643 m ; - 643 m
Duration: approximately 6 hours walk

The day is not very long so we will probably leave just before sunrise to enjoy the view and not to be cold.
The climb to Castore (4228 m) by the west wall begins on the glacier to then end by a rather tapered snow ridge: that's why the group for this Mountaineering Program can be composed of up to 2 people.
The descent will be on the same route to return to the Quintino Sella Hut (3585 mt).
After a little rest, we will have time to practice mountaineering rope techniques and the Guide will explain rescue techniques, in the event of a glacier accident in order to allow you to become more autonomous and to be more comfortable with handling a rope along this Spaghetti Tour - Monte Rosa Traverse.

Dinner and overnight at the Hut.

DAY 4
Rifugio Quintino Sella (3585 m) - Nez du Lyskamm (4200m) - Rifugio Città di Mantova (3498 m)

Vertical drop : + 615 m ; 700 m
Duration: approximately 6 hours walk

DAY 5
Rifugio Città di Mantova (3498 m) - Capanna Margherita - Punta Gnifetti (4554 m) - Gressoney

Vertical drop : + 1056 m ; - 1280 m  -
Duration: approximately 8 to 10 hours walk

The climb to Margherita Hut starts at the early lights of dawn. After a good breakfast, using front lamps and after being roped up, we will begin your climb along Lys glacier, which will take us to the saddle of the homonym Pass (4248 mt).
We will reach the Capanna Margherita, climbing on the top of Punta Gnifetti (4554 mt.), around mid-morning. Once on top our eyes open on the magnificent summits of Punta Zumstein (4561 mt) and Punta Dufour (4633 mt - the highest summit of Mont Rose) and the vertiginous walls of Lyskamm. You will enjoy the satisfaction and the panorama from the hut’s terrace and resume your energies, warming yourself up with a cup of hot tea and maybe a slice of the highest Italian pizza ;)
After lunch, we will have a 30 min. walk on the last part of the glacier to reach the cable car at Punta Indren, which will take us down to Staffal, in Gressoney.

Materiel

Mountaineering Technical Equipment 

• Hiking Goretex shoes suitable to crampons
• crampons
• walking poles
• iceaxe
• helmet.

How to dress for Mountaineering

First layer on the skin:

• (merino wool) thermal/breathable long sleeve
• (merino wool) long thermal/breathable underwear
• woolen warm socks

Second layer:

• warm technical sweater
• waterproof & windproof hiking pants

Third layer:

• thin but warm down jacket

Last layer:

• waterproof & windproof Goretex jacket

Important Additionals:

• sleeping sheet for the hut
• warm winter hat
• buff/head-neckband
• warm winter gloves
• headlamp
• suncream (protection factor 50+)
• sunglasses
• camera

If you have any doubts or simply need clarification on what gear to take for your climb, you can take a look at our Blog page "What gear for mountaineering?"

N.B. Consider a change for when you are back to the hut (you can leave some stuff at the hut).

IMPORTANT: if a person is not properly equipped and dressed, the mountain guide may decide not to allow him/her to take part in the climb. We ask you to read carefully the equipment list provided in the programme PDF and to call us if you have any doubts.

Level

Level required for the Spaghetti Tour

This programme is aimed at normally trained mountaineers with previous crampon experience, looking for new adventures.

Some sections will be on snowy ridges, which can be more or less sharp depending on the mountain conditions: you should not be afraid of heights.

Bear in mind that we will be staying at an altitude of over 3500m for many hours, therefore, in order to enjoy the climb and not struggle too much, It is recommended to train yourself appropriately and climb at altitude at least once before this ascent. If you wish, we will be happy to arrange a training ascent such as Gran Paradiso, Breithorn or some other peak between 3600 and 4000 mt.

Useful infos

Useful information to prepare your mountain trip:

Meeting on the first day

Meeting with the mountain guide in Staffal (Gressoney) at the departure of the Gabiet cable car at 9:00 a.m. 

End of the trip

The programme ends on the second day between 2:00 pm and 4:00 pm in Staffal (Gressoney).

Organisation:

The week before your departure, you will receive a reminder by email with all the information concerning the meeting and the guide in charge of your group.

Esprit Montagne / Esprit des Guides SA takes care of the hut reservation, you do not need to think about it.

In the event of bad weather or simply the impossibility of continuing your journey, the price of the descent and ascent in the gondola is at your expense.

Guiding

French and English speaking local UIAGM mountain guide from our team.

How to reach Aosta Valley

• Via Chamonix Mont Blanc – you can reach Chamonix by train from the main French airports or from Geneva airport – then you can reach Courmayeur – Aosta Valley through the Mont Blanc Tunnel (there are buses connections from Chamonix to Aosta Valley, but if you would like to be free to move it is advisable to rent a car).
• Via Geneva or Martigny – you can easily reach Martigny by train from Geneva airport - then you reach Aosta city center via the tunnel of Grand Saint Bernard (there are buses connections from Martigny to Aosta Valley, but if you would like to be free to move it is advisable to rent a car).
• Via Milan/Turin airport – rent a car directly to reach Aosta via the highway
  • Rent a car directly to reach Aosta via the motorway;
  • By train: https://www.trenitalia.com/trenitalia-france.html
• Or via Bourg Saint Maurice (73700, France) - Col du Petit Saint Bernard - you can reach Bourg Saint Maurice by train from the main French airports. Once in Bourg Saint Maurice you will need to rent a car to reach the Aosta Valley via the Col du Petit Saint Bernard (2 hours drive). It's a slightly longer trip but you can save the toll at the Mont Blanc Tunnel.

Public transports Aosta Valley

• Bus trasport from Chamonix to Courmayeur: https://aosta.arriva.it/line/courmayeur-chamonix/
• Bus trasport from Courmayeur to Aosta : https://aosta.arriva.it/en/line/aosta-courmayeur-2/
• Bus transport from Milan to Aosta: https://aosta.arriva.it/en/aosta-milano/
• Bus transport whithin the Aosta Region: https://aosta.arriva.it/en/timetables-and-routes/

Bus to the Gressoney Valley

The departure point of the bus for the Gressoney Valley is at the train station in the village of Pont Saint Martin.
For the bus timetable: https://www.vitagroup.it/wp-content/uploads/2022/06/estivo-gressoney-2022.pdf

If you are coming only for the climb, we can organize you a taxi to pick you up or the mountain guide can come to pick you up on the road nearby Aosta (organization upon booking).

Accommodation in Staffal:

For those who wish to sleep in Staffal in the evening before returning to the Guide we recommend the Walsertal Residence, a very nice and cozy hotel, two minutes from the cable car departure.

Sports shops for specific equipment rental:

You can rent equipment at Ermanno Sport in Staffal, directly at the departure of the cable car: remember to contact the shop in advance to book your equipment.
 

Car sharing

When you register online, you can choose whether or not you wish to take part in the car-sharing scheme to get to the starting point of your course. Once you have made your booking, you can log back into your Esprit Montagne account to access a section dedicated to carpooling. Here you will find the contacts of the other participants who are interested in car-sharing, so that you can contact them directly.