Monte Rosa Massif
Spaghetti Tour - Monte Rosa Traverse - Mountaineering Stage 4
Technical lev. : 4.5 / 5
MOUNTAINEERING INTERMEDIATE LEVEL
Maximum 2 people per Guide.
You have experience in mountaineering and hiking and you have already made an ascent at altitude.
You are comfortable with crampons walking and at ease on hiking on glacier, you can manage a rope on easy routes at altitude.
Possible learning of more complex techniques: rescue, weather forecast and cartography (GPS)…
Level example: Lyskam Nose (4272 mT) - Monte Rosa Massif
Physical lev. : 4 / 5
SPORT TRAINED
Effort corresponding to approximately 1200 - 1700m of ascent per day.
For mountaineering: even if the vertical drop is less significant, staying at high altitude for several days will have a significant effect on your usual physical performance.
You like and practice endurance sports at a good level.
With this peculiar name is known Monte Rosa Tour, a crossing at altitude around the Lyskam, Breithorn and Castor massifs: many consider these mountains and valleys as the finest in the whole Alpine range. It is probably the most beautiful alpine circuit in the Alps with unique landscapes and a variety of incredible views...
. Max 2 people per guide
. Crossing the Monte Rosa at high altitude, from hut to hut
. Discovery of an exceptionally beautiful glacial environment
. View of the most beautiful 4000 metre peaks in the Alps
. Italian style welcome in high altitude refuges: the cuisine will not disappoint you
Spaghetti Tour is a week that should be on every mountaineer’s bucket list. It’s a trip that never disappoints and it will probably have you coming back to sample more…
With this peculiar name is known the Monte Rosa Tour, starting from Cervinia and arriving in Gressoney: we are making it shorter to simplify the logistic, to start from and return to Gressoney.
Many consider these mountains and valleys as the finest in the whole Alpine range. It is probably the most beautiful Alpine Route in the Alps with unique landscapes and a variety of incredible views: the gorgeous Monte Rosa Tour, known as Spaghetti Tour, is a crossing at altitude around the Lyskamm, Breithorn and Castore massifs, which allows you to reach different peaks above 4000 meters in just few days, comfortably sleeping in the cozy Monte Rosa huts, well known for the quality of their Italian food… Every day we will reach the summit of a 4000 peak, mostly following the itinerary of the famous "Mezzalama Trophy" sky race.
We start from Staffal in the valley of Gressoney, taking the cable car that brings us to the Bettaforca Pass and therefore reach the Rifugio Quintino Sella, where we will be sleeping the first night and from where we will leave at dawn to climb Castor (4221 mt.) the next day. On the third day we will cross the Lys’ Glacier and the Lyskamm Nose Pass (4272 mt.) and head towards the Città di Mantova Hut, where we will spend the night. The next day we will walk along the great Monte Rosa Glaciers to finally reach the famous Capanna Margherita (4554 mt), Europe's highest Hut where, before walking back again, we will taste Italy's highest pizza!
There are many variations that can be applied to the itinerary, which will be evaluated according to physical conditions and technical level of the group.
Vertical drop : + 1280 m
Meeting in Staffal around 11:00 am in front of the Cable Car Ticket Station (possibility of group transport with the Guide - contact us for further information)
We park the cars in a parking lot where we will come back in 4 days at the end of our Monte Rosa Traverse (Mini Spaghetti Tour). We take the Staffal - Sant’Anna cable car and then a chairlift that takes us to the Bettaforca Pass.
At the top we will take the path that will lead us to the Quintino Sella Hut, the view on the Monte Rosa glaciers is magnificent: from there we will see the route of the Spaghetti Tour Traverse, which we are going to take the next day.
The walk to the hut begins on a good trail, to then becomes a little more technical before arriving at the Hut where the access looks like a Via Ferrata, a path with ladders and ropes to facilitate the way up. While preparing the equipment for the next day, your Guide will explain you the itinerary and the plan for the next day based on the weather forecast and the schedule choices.
The Refuge Quintino Sella has just been renovated, the refuge is very comfortable for its altitude, which facilitates acclimatisation, the view on the Monte Rosa glaciers is spectacular as of the Aosta Valley and Piedmont.
Vertical drop : + 643 m ; - 643 m
The day is not very long so we will probably leave just before sunrise to enjoy the view and not to be cold.
The climb to Castore (4228 m) by the west wall begins on the glacier to then end by a rather tapered snow ridge: that's why the group for this Mountaineering Program can be composed of up to 2 people.
The descent will be on the same route to return to the Quintino Sella Hut (3585 mt).
After a little rest, we will have time to practice mountaineering rope techniques and the Guide will explain rescue techniques, in the event of a glacier accident in order to allow you to become more autonomous and to be more comfortable with handling a rope along this Spaghetti Tour - Monte Rosa Traverse.
Dinner and overnight at the Hut.
Vertical drop : + 615 m ; 700 m
We will leave the hut in the early morning to climb up the Lyskamm Nose (4200 mt.) following the Lys Glacier. We will then reach the Rifugio Città di Mantova at 3.498 mt.
We will enjoy your afternoon having some tea on the beautiful terrace of the hut, having the whole valley of Gressoney at our feet! Dinner and overnight stay at the hut.
Vertical drop : + 1056 m ; - 1280 m - 8/10 hours walk
The climb to Margherita Hut starts at the early lights of dawn. After a good breakfast, using front lamps and after being roped up, we will begin your climb along Lys glacier, which will take us to the saddle of the homonym Pass (4248 mt).
We will reach the Capanna Margherita, climbing on the top of Punta Gnifetti (4554 mt.), around mid-morning. Once on top our eyes open on the magnificent summits of Punta Zumstein (4561 mt) and Punta Dufour (4633 mt - the highest summit of Mont Rose) and the vertiginous walls of Lyskamm. You will enjoy the satisfaction and the panorama from the hut’s terrace and resume your energies, warming yourself up with a cup of hot tea and maybe a slice of the highest Italian pizza ;)
After lunch, we will have a 30 min. walk on the last part of the glacier to reach the cable car at Punta Indren, which will take us down to Staffal, in Gressoney.
Price:
Possibility of extending or personalizing your Spaghetti Tour - Monte Rosa Traverse, price on request.
Dates available on demand.
First layer on the skin:
Second layer:
Third layer:
Last layer:
Important Additionals:
N.B. Consider a change for when you are back to the hut (you can leave some stuff at the hut).
Covid 19 Special:
This programme is aimed at normally trained mountaineers with previous crampon experience, looking for new adventures.
Some sections will be on snowy ridges, which can be more or less sharp depending on the mountain conditions: you should not be afraid of heights.
Bear in mind that we will be staying at an altitude of over 3500m for many hours, therefore, in order to enjoy the climb and not struggle too much, It is recommended to train yourself appropriately and climb at altitude at least once before this ascent. If you wish, we will be happy to arrange a training ascent such as Gran Paradiso, Breithorn or some other peak between 3600 and 4000 mt.
We recommend to have your own personal travel insurance, covering accident abroad and repatriation.
If you are coming only for the climb, we can organize you a taxi to pick you up or the mountain guide can come to pick you up on the road nearby Aosta (organization upon booking).
Meeting in Staffal around 11:00 am in front of the Cable Car Ticket Station (possibility of group transport with the Guide - contact us for further information).
Click on the image below to see the google map point:
. The assistance of an experienced mountain guide of our Team;
. The use of equipment for the group (ropes, pitons, karabiners).
. Half board to the huts for yourself and the Guide;
. Snacks or picnics for the daily ascent;
. Cablecar tickets from Staffal to Colle Bettaforca on the 1st day;
. Cable car tickets from Punta Indren to Staffal (Gressoney) on the last day;
. Personal technical equipment: crampons, harness and ice axe rental in case of need (it can be organized upon booking);
. Lunches, snacks, drinks and personal expenses;
. All what is not explicitly mentioned in the "price includes".
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