Weissmies & Alphubel | Mountaineering Stage 3
Technical lev. : 4.5 / 5
2 clients per guide maximum.
You have experience in mountaineering and have already climbed at altitude. You are autonomous and master the activity, you can manage a rope on an easy route in the high mountains.
You will learn complex techniques: rescue, weather and cartography (GPS)...
Example of level: Lyskam Nose (4272 m) - Massif du Mont Rose
A mountaineering rating may be used in addition.
Physical lev. : 4.5 / 5
SPORT VERY WELL TRAINED
Effort corresponding to 1500m - 2000m of ascent in hiking.
You practice endurance sports at a very good level.
A sequence of 4000 meters mountains: we start from Saas Grund to reach our first objective, the Weissmies (4017 meters above sea level), easy to access thanks to the cable car, which will allow us to climb up and down to Saas Grund during the day. We will end with the Alphubel (4206 mt) above Zermatt, which culminates in a beautiful snow ridge where we will get a magnificent view on the Dom de Mischabel (4545m), on Matterhorn and Monte Rosa!
Prices & Dates
The Saas and Zermatt valleys are the perfect destination to experience the atmosphere of the upper Wallis, with its many peaks over 4000 meters at the heart of the Alps, known for their beauty all over the world.
The Weissmies is one of the most popular peaks in the Saas Fee valley, thanks to its easy access by cable car from Saas Grund. The normal route is doable in one day starting from Saas Grund via the via Kreuzboden cable car to reach the top station of Hohsaas at 3000 meters. On the other hand, the crossing of the Weissmies and the ascent by the north ridge are done over several days, sleeping respectively at the Almagellerhütte and at the Weissmieshütte.
In the Swiss German dialect “Weissmies” means “white moss”, to represent the beautiful ice cap of the summit and to make the difference with the Schwarzmies (covered with mosses and lichens).
The first ascent of the Weissmies was made in August 1855 by local guides Jakob Christian Heusser and Peter Joseph Zurbriggen.
The Weissmies summit (4,017 meters) is the highest point of the Simplon 4000 trio, along with the Lagginhorn (4,010 meters) and the Fletschhorn (3,993 meters).
The Alphubel is a summit of 4206 meters above sea level belonging to the Mischabels massif, in Wallis (Swiss Alps).
This stunning mountain lies in a majestic glacier environment between the Mischabeljoch 3851 mt, which separates the Alphubel and the Täschhorn, and the Alphubeljoch 3782 mt, a large icy saddle that separates the Alphubel and the Feekopf. The Alphubel has a rather peculiar square shape and its flat top makes it unique compared to the sharp mountains that surround it. The east face, on the Sass Fee side, is characterized by glaciers that rise to the top and form a large summit plateau. The west face, towards Täschtal (Täsch valley), appears mainly rocky, with a severe wall that descends steeply towards the Weingarten glacier.
The first ascent of the Alphubel was made on August 9, 1860 by W. Hinchliff and L. Stephen with guides M. Anderegg and P. Perren.
From the Täschhütte, this great mixed route leads to the summit via the east face or the southeast ridge known as the Eisnase (ice nose).
The Alphubel is technically one of the easiest 4,000-meter peaks to climb, but it's a fairly long mountaineering race that demands good physical shape and endurance.
Vertical drop: + 1000 meters; - 1000 meters
Meeting at 7.15 am in Saas Grund, at the departure point of the cable car for Kreuzboden / Hohsaas.
We will take the first dumpster in the morning at 7:30 am, to reach Hohsaas at an altitude of 3,101 meters.
We will climb the Weissmies by the normal route, starting from the Hohsaas station and crossing at the beginning the wide glacial plateau of the Triftgletscher up to an altitude of 3200 meters.
Then, a climb in the middle of the seracs under the ice cap leads us to a pass at 3800 meters. The final part of the ascent is magnificent, following the NW ridge to the summit at 4017 meters.
The descent route will be on the same of the ascent, until Hohsaas where we will take the cable car again to reach back Saas Grund.
Overnight stay in hotel in Saas Grund or Saas Almagell.
Vertical drop: + 500 meters
We will quietly leave the Saas valley in the morning to reach the Zermatt valley until the village of Täsch. There we will leave the cars and we will take a taxi which will bring us to the Taschalp mountain pasture. From there we will take the path up to the Täsch Hut (Täschhütte) where we will spend the night.
The walk takes between 1h30 / 2h, we will have time to enjoy the beautiful landscapes and to rest well for the ascent the next day.
Vertical drop: + 1500 meters; - 2000 meters
Wake up early in the morning and depart around 4:00 am for the top of the Alphubel.
We will walk up the Alphubelgletscher until the Alphubeljoch (3771 meters).
From the Alphubeljoch there are two options: depending on snow conditions and the group, the guide will decide whether to take the normal route across the glacier to the north or go straight up the southeast ridge (Eisnase).
The ridge of the Eisnase is quite narrow in the beginning and then becomes wider, but also steeper: this will be the ideal route to improve your crampon technique!
Once on the summit area, you continue almost flat until you reach the highest point at an altitude of 4,206 meters.
Descent by the ascent route, around 4 hours to Täschhütte.
Once back at the hut, we can enjoy a typical Swiss plate, before continuing the descent to Täschalp, where a taxi will pick us up to take us back to our cars in Täsch.
First layer on the skin:
N.B. Consider a change for when you are back to the hut (you can leave some stuff at the hut).
Covid 19 Special:
This mountaineering program is designed for mountaineers with a good physical and technical level. Previous mountaineering experience is required. The climbing routes are mainly glacial with steep passages on a glacier at around 45 degrees as for Weissmies. As for Alphubel, two itineraries are possible: either by a glacial and rocky ridge or by an easier glacial route.
We recommend to have your own personal travel insurance, covering accident abroad and repatriation.
In front of the Kreuzboden - Hoohsaas cable car station at 7:15 am, in Saas Grund: click here to see where.
The Saas-Fee / Saastal valley is easily reacheable by car or public transport, it is about two or three hours drive from Chamonix, Geneva or Zurich. The city of Visp is connected to the main Swiss cities by direct train connections. From Visp leaves the 511 bus which takes you into the Saas valley.
For those traveling by car, there is a large car parking at the entrance of Saas-Fee (see where): access to the village is forbidden to cars, the village is accessible only to pedestrians.
By staying overnight in a hotel in the Saas Valley (Saas Fee, Saas Grund or Saas Almagell) you can enjoy the benefits of the SaastalCard!
All the hotels in the valley, and some apartments too, subscribe to the SaastalCard service: upon arrival, you can use free all cablecars in the Saas valley and the PostBus (Metro Alpin not included); one night at the hotel provides a free lift ticket for the current day. More info on Saasfee.ch. Remember to ask for the Saastal Card if you are staying in the valley for one or more nights.
They have loved it...
J'ai passé un super séjour avec Esprit Montagne. La préparation du stage d'alpinisme s'est déroulée de manière sereine grâce au professionnalisme de Mickaela. Danilo est un guide exceptionnel et expérimenté qui m'a fait partagé sa passion pour la montagne et la nature. Si je pouvez, je repartirai demain avec eux les yeux fermés!
JG Brunet 2021-08-17
. Guiding of a UIAGM Mountain Guide of our Team;
. Equipment for the group (ropes, carabiners, etc.);
. The cable car tickets from Saas Grund to Hohsaas on DAY 1 - check the advantages of the SaastalCard if you stay overnight in a hotel in the Saas Valley;
. Half-board treatment at the Taschhütte on DAY 2;
. Taxi from Täsch to Täschalp on DAY 2.
. Personal technical equipment: crampons, ice ax and harness;
. The night in a hotel on DAY 1 in Saas Grund / Saas Fee, for you and for the Guide (being a tailor-made program, we do not include the night in a hotel given the variability of prices according to the dates during the season and according to the chosen accommodation);
. Meals at noon, drinks and snacks so that you can eat as you wish at the refuge;
. Car transfers to Saas Grund and from Saas Grund to Täsch (unless otherwise agreed upon booking);
. Parking if you have to leave your car in Saas Grund or Täsch;
. All that is not mentioned in "the price included".
The Monte Rosa traverse is one of the best adventures you can have in Switzerland. Renowned for its spectacular peaks and wild valleys, the Valais region offers climbers a unique variety of landscapes, trails and challenges.
You can discover other mountaineering courses in the Monte Rosa massif such as the Monte Rosa traverse which is also known as the Spaghetti Tour.