Monte Rosa Massif
Climb of Lyskamm Nose 4.272
Technical lev. : 4.5 / 5
MOUNTAINEERING INTERMEDIATE LEVEL
Maximum 2 people per Guide.
You have experience in mountaineering and hiking and you have already made an ascent at altitude.
You are comfortable with crampons walking and at ease on hiking on glacier, you can manage a rope on easy routes at altitude.
Possible learning of more complex techniques: rescue, weather forecast and cartography (GPS)…
Level example: Lyskam Nose (4272 mT) - Monte Rosa Massif
Physical lev. : 4 / 5
For trained sporty people, you master the sport activity of the trip you buy!
Effort corresponding to approximately 1200 - 1700m of elevation gain in trekking.
For mountaineering: even if the vertical drop is less significant, staying at high altitude for several days will have a significant effect on your usual physical performance.
Schneedomsptize, better known as Naso del Lyskamm or Lyskamm Nose, is part of the Monte Rosa Massif, along the Italian-Swiss border between Gressoney and Zermatt. The Lyskamm Nose is known as one of the most beautiful ridges in the Alps.
Dates & Prices
Trip
Schneedomsptize, better known as Naso del Lyskamm or Lyskamm Nose, is part of the Monte Rosa Massif, along the Italian-Swiss border between Gressoney and Zermatt. The Lyskamm Nose is known as one of the most beautiful ridges in the Alps.
As on any peak of Monte Rosa, a spectacular view surrounds you along this whole crossing: looking east you can see the main peaks of Monte Rosa with Punta Dufour and Nordend, Punta Gnifetti, Punta Parrot and Pyramide Vincent, to the west you can admire Castor, Pollux and Breithorn, to the north you will admire the summits of Eastern and Western Lyskamm, and finally the south, the view opens on the Mont Blanc massif and Gran Paradiso on the other side.
Program
Meeting with the mountain guide around mid-morning in Staffal (Gressoney). After a short material check, you will take the cable car to reach the Colle di Bettaforca. It will then take you about three hours walk to reach Rifugio Quintino Sella, where you will dine and sleep.
After a good breakfast, you will begin your climb up the Felik Glacier, to then reach the Lys Glacier, and on south of Western and Eastern Lyskamm you will begin the diagonal climb along the west side of the Nose (40 ° steep) until reaching the Nose Pass. From there you will keep going left along a short slope and you will reach the snowy ridge, to then head to the right climbing an easy mixed ridge to reach the summit at 4,272 meters.
The descent is on the east side of the Nose until you reach the descent route on the Lys Glacier and reach the Rifugio Città di Mantova, where you can rest a little and stop for lunch. After lunch you will walk 40 minutes to reach the cable car at Punta Indren, which will take you back to Staffal (Gressoney).
Equipement
First layer on the skin:
Second layer:
Third layer:
Last layer:
Important Additionals:
If you have any doubts or simply need clarification on what gear to take for your climb, you can take a look at our Blog page "What gear for mountaineering?"
N.B. Consider a change for when you are back to the hut (you can leave some stuff at the hut).
Level
Length
About 4:30 hours to go - about 3 hours to get back to the hut.
Level required
Well-trained hikers or trekkers looking for new perspectives: the traverse of the Liskam Nose requires being able to walk with crampons, it is necessary to have resistance to about 8 hours of walk and a good acclimation to altitude, given the stay to above 3500 mt. It is recommended to train yourself appropriately and climb at altitude at least once before this climb.
Useful info
Meeting with the Mountain Guide at 9 a.m. in Staffal, Gressoney
End of the tour in the afternoon of the 2nd day between 2:00 and 4:00 p.m. in Staffal (Gressoney).
The week before your departure, you will receive a reminder by email with all the information concerning the meeting and the guide in charge of your group.
Esprit Montagne / Esprit des Guides SA takes care of the hut reservation, you do not need to think about it.
French and English speaking local UIAGM mountain guide from our team.
The departure point of the bus for the Gressoney Valley is at the train station in the village of Pont Saint Martin.
For the bus timetable: https://www.vitagroup.it/wp-content/uploads/2022/06/estivo-gressoney-2022.pdf
If you are coming only for the climb, we can organize you a taxi to pick you up or the mountain guide can come to pick you up on the road nearby Aosta (organization upon booking).
For those who wish to sleep in Staffal in the evening before returning to the Guide we recommend the Walsertal Residence, a very nice and cozy hotel, two minutes from the cable car departure.
If you need to hire technical equipment (crampons, harness and ice axe), please let us know in advance: it is possible to arrange rental with your guide.
Regarding mountaineering boots, here is the type of boots you should have: Scarpa Triolet GTX
You can rent them at Gal Sport in Aosta, at the Pilier du Sport in Morgex (AO) or at Ravanel or Snell in Chamonix.
We recommend to have your own personal travel insurance, covering accident abroad and repatriation.
Italy is in the Eurozone, so the currency is the Euro (€).
The shelter has a credit card terminal, however, we strongly advise you to bring cash!
. The guiding of an experienced mountain guide of our Team
. The use of equipment for the group (ropes, pitons, karabiners)
. Cable car tickets from Gressoney to Col de Bettaforca (1st day) and from Punta Indren to Gressoney (2nd day) for yourself
. Half board to the hut for yourself and the guide
. Personal technical equipment: crampons, harness and ice axe rental in case of need (it can be organized upon booking)
. All what is not explicitly mentioned in "The price includes"
Photo gallery
Any question?
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