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Mountaineering
in the Monte Rosa Massif: climb of the Lyskamm Nose

Monte Rosa Massif

Climb of Lyskamm Nose 4.272

2 days
Participants : max 2
Mid June mid September
All inclusive

From 750

Lyskamm Nose Mountaineering

Schneedomsptize, better known as Naso del Lyskamm or Lyskamm Nose, is part of the Monte Rosa Massif, along the Italian-Swiss border between Gressoney and Zermatt. The Lyskamm Nose is known as one of the most beautiful ridges in the Alps.
As on any peak of Monte Rosa, a spectacular view surrounds you along this whole crossing: looking east you can see the main peaks of Monte Rosa with Punta Dufour and Nordend, Punta Gnifetti, Punta Parrot and Pyramide Vincent, to the west you can admire Castor, Pollux and Breithorn, to the north you will admire the summits of Eastern and Western Lyskamm, and finally the south, the view opens on the Mont Blanc massif and Gran Paradiso on the other side.

1st Day
GRESSONEY - COL DE BETTAFORCA (2727 mt) - QUINTINO SELLA al Felik HUT (4585 mt)

Meeting with the mountain guide around mid-morning in Staffal (Gressoney). After a short material check, you will take the cable car to reach the Colle di Bettaforca. It will then take you about three hours walk to reach Rifugio Quintino Sella, where you will dine and sleep.

2nd Day
QUINTINO SELLA al Felik HUT - LYSKAMM NOSE (4272 mt) - CITTA DI MANTOVA HUT (3498 mt) - PUNTA INDREN CABLE CAR - GRESSONEY

After a good breakfast, you will begin your climb up the Felik Glacier, to then reach the Lys Glacier, and on south of Western and Eastern Lyskamm you will begin the diagonal climb along the west side of the Nose (40 ° steep) until reaching the Nose Pass. From there you will keep going left along a short slope and you will reach the snowy ridge, to then head to the right climbing an easy mixed ridge to reach the summit at 4,272 meters.
The descent is on the east side of the Nose until you reach the descent route on the Lys Glacier and reach the Rifugio Città di Mantova, where you can rest a little and stop for lunch. After lunch you will walk 40 minutes to reach the cable car at Punta Indren, which will take you back to Staffal (Gressoney).

Dates available on demand.

The price of the ascent:

1250 €, if only one person in the group;
750 € by person, if two people in the group.

TECHNICAL EQUIPMENT

Hiking Goretex shoes suitable to crampons
crampons
walking poles
iceaxe
helmet.

HOW TO DRESS

First layer on the skin:

(merino wool) thermal/breathable long sleeve
(merino wool) long thermal/breathable underwear
woolen warm socks

Second layer:

warm technical sweater
waterproof & windproof hiking pants

Third layer:

thin but warm duvet (to wear just in case of cold temperatures)

Last layer:

waterproof & windproof Goretex jacket

Important Additionals:

warm winter hat
buff/head-neckband
warm winter gloves
headlamp
suncream (protection factor 50+)
sunglasses
camera

N.B. Consider a change for when you are back to the hut (you can leave some stuff at the hut).

Length

About 4:30 hours to go - about 3 hours to get back to the hut.

Level required

Well-trained hikers or trekkers looking for new perspectives: the traverse of the Liskam Nose requires being able to walk with crampons, it is necessary to have resistance to about 8 hours of walk and a good acclimation to altitude, given the stay to above 3500 mt. It is recommended to train yourself appropriately and climb at altitude at least once before this climb.

Insurance

We recommend to have your own personal travel insurance, covering accident abroad and repatriation.

How to reach Aosta Valley

Via Chamonix Mont Blanc – you can reach Chamonix by train from the main French airports or from Geneva airport – then you can reach Courmayeur – Aosta Valley through the Mont Blanc Tunnel (there are buses connections from Chamonix to Aosta Valley, but if you would like to be free to move it is advisable to rent a car).
Via Geneva or Martigny – you can easily reach Martigny by train from Geneva airport - then you reach Aosta city center via the tunnel of Grand Saint Bernard (there are buses connections from Martigny to Aosta Valley, but if you would like to be free to move it is advisable to rent a car).
Via Milan/Turin airport – rent a car directly to reach Aosta via the highway;
Or via Bourg Saint Maurice (73700, France) - Col du Petit Saint Bernard - you can reach Bourg Saint Maurice by train from the main French airports. Once in Bourg Saint Maurice you will need to rent a car to reach the Aosta Valley via the Col du Petit Saint Bernard (2 hours drive). It's a slightly longer trip but you can save the toll at the Mont Blanc Tunnel.

If you are coming only for the climb, we can organize you a taxi to pick you up or the mountain guide can come to pick you up on the road nearby Aosta (organization upon booking).