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Mont Blanc Massif

Ascent to Mont Blanc 4.810 in 4 days - Mountaineering Stage 5

Technical lev. : 4.5 / 5

Technical lev. : 4.5 / 5

MOUNTAINEERING INTERMEDIATE LEVEL
Maximum 2 people per Guide.
You have experience in mountaineering and hiking and you have already made an ascent at altitude.
You are comfortable with crampons walking and at ease on hiking on glacier, you can manage a rope on easy routes at altitude.
Possible learning of more complex techniques: rescue, weather forecast and cartography (GPS)…
Level example: Lyskamm Nose (4272 mT) - Monte Rosa Massif

Physical lev. : 4.5 / 5

Physical lev. : 4.5 / 5

Intermediate level, between 4 and 5. Effort corresponding to approximately 1400m - 2000m of elevation.

  • 4 days
  • Participants : max 2
  • June to September
  • All inclusive in Mountain Hut

The highest peak in Europe between Italy and France represents the apex of a mountain range (only 18 km of development), but extremely severe and dotted with many peaks over 4000 m.
To envision the highest peak in the Alps, you need to have mountaineering experience and have already achieved summits over 4000 meters!

From 1980

Ascent of Mont-Blanc 4810 meters

The highest peak in Europe between Italy and France represents the apex of a mountain range (only 18 km of development), but extremely severe and dotted with many peaks over 4000 m.

The summit of Mont-Blanc has a large layer of ice on the northern slope, on the French side, which descends at low altitudes. The Italian side is also characterized by vast glacial surfaces, however it is much steeper and more impressive.
Mont Blanc is an ambitious point of arrival for mountaineers from all over the world, the ascent of this superb summit has a unique view of the Alps.

The ascent is generally carried out by the Refuge des Cosmiques, or the Refuge du Gouter.
This ascent requires good physical preparation because it takes around 8 to 10 hours of walking and climbing at altitude; in addition, it is necessary to have a good experience in the use of the ice ax and crampons.

If you do not have experience of cramponing and mountaineering at altitude, you must carry out with Esprit Montagne a training and acclimatization program with the ascent of different peaks in view of this great ascent (for example Grand Paradis, Breithorn, Capanna Margherita, etc.).

This course is not suitable for beginner mountaineers, the ascent of Mont Blanc is an adventure that must remain an objective for confirmed mountaineers who already have good mountain experience with several 4000 meters on the counters.
This trip allows you to have an optimum physical and technical progression to attempt the summit on the 3 rd or 4 th day of the course in case of bad weather on the 3 rd day you may be diverted to the Grand Paradis (4061 meters in the Valley d'Aosta) or Punta Gnifetti (4554 meters in the Monte Rosa massif) to achieve beautiful peaks or if you find that you are not fit enough for Mont Blanc.

The route will take place on the normal route of the Dôme du Goûter, it is a sporting challenge and to a lesser extent technical.

This course allows a good acclimatization to the altitude to avoid the problems of acute mountain sickness (pulmonary or cerebral edema ...) we ask you not to take any medication without informing your High Mountain Guide, he will explain them to you. effects of altitude on your body and need you to tell it how you feel to best manage the course to allow you to climb Mont Blanc.

Program of the 4 days of Mountaineering to achieve Mont Blanc:

1st Day - Monday
Chamonix - Aiguille du Midi - Mont Blanc du Tacul (4248 m) - Refuge des Cosmiques (3600 meters)

Meeting at 7:00 am in the car park of the Aiguille du Midi cable car (Chamonix), we check the equipment and we will take the cable car to the Aiguille du Midi (3842 m), after putting on the crampons and the equipment , we will descend the famous ridge of the Aiguille du Midi to arrive at the foot of Mont Blanc du Tacul, we will make its ascent, it is a 4000 meters which is already technical, but quickly accessible thanks to the ski lifts. At the top we will enjoy the view of Mont Blanc and Mont Maudit, this ascent allows you to acclimatize and see the conditions of the mountain. Your Guide will have time to show you different ways of tying and teach you several techniques and tips to improve your technique. We descend to the Cosmiques refuge (about 3,600 meters), where we will have dinner at sunset, before sleeping for our first night at altitude, it is a magical place to dream above the valley!

2nd Day - Tuesday
Refuge des Cosmisques - Aiguille du Midi - Chamonix - Les Houches - Eagle's Nest - Tête Rousse

After a night at altitude in a superb high mountain world, we take the valley path, towards the summit of the Aiguille du Midi then the descent by cable car, the arrival in Chamonix is quick. We can take a short break in the living room before resuming our activities and heading towards Les Houches.

We take a shuttle to Les Houches and take the Bellevue cable car then the Mont Blanc Tramway to reach the Eagle's Nest.

Here we are at the start of the Voie Normale du Mont Blanc, after a short climb to the Tête Rousse refuge, we put our things down and observe the mountain to decide with your guide on the departure time for the next day. We spend the end of the afternoon resting and eating, tomorrow the departure will be very early. Another guide joined us for the climb the next day. To maximize the chances of success and increase safety.

3rd Day - Wednesday
Tête Rousse Refuge - Aiguille du Gouter - Dôme du Gouter - Mont Blanc - Refuge du Gouter

We leave very early at the beginning of the night, to start the day with the couloir du Gouter, it is normally frozen, which limits rockfall. The climb is rapid thanks to the adaptation of your body to the altitude we have been above 3000 meters of altitude for almost 48 hours. We arrive at the Gouter refuge, the Alpinists who slept at more than 3800 meters, leaving the refuge and we all leave for the summit. Normally we were able to rest better at 3200 meters and we are walking well to reach the Dôme du Gouter then the bumps of Mont Blanc and finally the Summit!

The view is superb at the top and we enjoy the view from the roof of Europe, then the time comes for the descent, after this long climb we make a short descent and sleep at the Gouter refuge. We took advantage of the exceptional view offered to us on our last night at altitude, the highest at over 3800 meters.

4th Day - Thursday
Refuge du Gouter - Descent of the Aiguille du Gouter - Refuge de tête Rousse - Nid d'Aigle - Les Houches - Chamonix

The night allows the re-freezing of the couloir du Gouter, we will descend with the first light of day in the north face, quickly we will reach the Tête Rousse refuge before the rock falls resume. We then descend by the path that we had taken 48 hours previously to reach Houches then Chamonix to enjoy the capital of mountaineering and the view of the summit of Mont Blanc!

End of the mountaineering course, see you soon for new heights!

Arrival

End

Price *

Status

Du 24/09/2022 au 27/09/2022

au 27/09/2022

693

FULL

* Price per person (without insurance)

Dates available on demand.

Price for climbing Mont Blanc

  • one person: 2950 €;
  • two persons: 1980 € per person.

Necessary equipment for the Ascent of Mont Blanc:

Mont Blanc is a small expedition, it is a difficult summit that should not be taken lightly, the ascent is only possible in good weather with little wind, at nearly 5000 meters above sea level. can change extremely quickly despite a good weather forecast. You must therefore have all the equipment on the list!

TECHNICAL MATERIAL:

  • mountaineering boots in Goretex and of very good quality, cramponables
  • crampons and ice ax
  • harness
  • 40 liter backpack
  • trekking poles
  • mountaineering helmet
  • carabiners

HOW TO DRESS for Mont Blanc?

First layer on the skin - underwear:

  • thermal and breathable T-shirt (merino recommended)
  • thermal and breathable tights (merino recommended)
  • warm socks.

Second layer:

  • warm and breathable technical fleece;
  • windproof and waterproof mountaineering pants

Third layer:

  • fine but warm down

Last layer:

  • quality or similar Goretex jacket, waterproof and windproof

Do not forget:

  • warm winter hat
  • collar size
  • two pairs of warm winter gloves or mittens
  • headlamp
  • a thermos and a water bottle
  • solar cream
  • sunglasses and ski mask in stormy weather
  • camera
  • your cell phone
  • your first aid kit with paracetamol and your personal medicines

Covid 19 Special:

  • one pair of light shoes or sleepers to walk inside the hut
  • a sleeping bag for the nights at the huts (in France blankets are not given, due to Covid 19)
  • a pillowcase or light inflatable cushion for the refuge
  • hydroalcolic gel and masks

Difficulty for the Ascent of Mont Blanc:

Required level:

A long glacial and rocky route that requires very good training, a very good technical level and a good capacity for concentration.

Some short sections are steep (50°), sometimes icy and require a good command of the use of ice axes and crampons. Finally, a good adaptation to the high altitude is also necessary. Some people do not manage to acclimatise despite the steps they have taken to adapt.

It is necessary to have already climbed 4000m summits one or two weeks before the Mont Blanc and that the ascent was done easily without acclimatization problems.

We have designed this programme with a day and night of acclimatisation in the beginning, to allow you to have the best possible progression at high altitude.

Useful information for the preparation for the Ascent of Mont Blanc:

Insurance

Cancellation and repatriation insurance is recommended as well as other insurance guaranteeing search and rescue in the mountains (approximately 10,000 euros guarantee).

How to reach Chamonix:

  • Via Geneva or other French airport: you can easily reach Chamonix by train from the main French airports or Geneva airport;
  • Via the French rail network to Chamonix station.
  • If you wish, we can organize a taxi for you for your trips from the airport: do not hesitate to ask for information when making your reservation.

Budget for the Mont Blanc climb:

THE PRICE INCLUDES

. Guiding of the UIAGM Mountain Guide of our team

. Collective equipment (ropes, karabiners etc)

. The cost of the ski lifts required for the programme

. Half board in the refuge for 3 nights

 

THE PRICE DOES NOT INCLUDE

. Rental of crampons, ice ax and harness (around 15/20 euros per person)

. The midday meals at the refuge so that you can eat the way you want and the snacks to take with along the ascent, so that you eat what you wish and digest: everyone reacts differently at altitude

. Anything not mentioned in "the price includes"

Any question?

Contact us

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