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Monte Rosa Massif

Climb of Pollux 4.084 - Monte Rosa

Technical lev. : 4.5 / 5

Technical lev. : 4.5 / 5

MOUNTAINEERING INTERMEDIATE LEVEL
Maximum 2 people per Guide.
You have experience in mountaineering and hiking and you have already made an ascent at altitude.
You are comfortable with crampons walking and at ease on hiking on glacier, you can manage a rope on easy routes at altitude.
Possible learning of more complex techniques: rescue, weather forecast and cartography (GPS)…
Level example: Lyskam Nose (4272 mT) - Monte Rosa Massif

Physical lev. : 4.5 / 5

Physical lev. : 4.5 / 5

Intermediate level, between 4 and 5. Effort corresponding to approximately 1400m - 2000m of elevation.

  • 2 days
  • Participants : max 2
  • Mid June to beginning of September
  • All inclusive

One of the twin names coming from the classic mythology symbolizing friendship: Castor&Pollux are two beautiful twin peaks bounded by their eternal closeness. The climb to these two peaks will allow you to enjoy some of the most beautiful landscapes in the Alps, between Italy and Switzerland.

From 810

Dates & Prices

Dates available on demand.

The price of the climb of Pollux:

  • 810 € per person, if the goup is composed of 2 people;
  • 1250 € if there is one person.

Dates are available on demand. Contact us : info@espritmontagne.com.

Trip

Ascent to Pollux 4084 mt.

Pollux (4084 mt) is the second of the two Twins in the massif of Monte Rosa.
Compared to "Castor", which has an higher altitude (mt 4.221), the ascension is certainly more demanding.
We propose the departure from Cervinia as this is less exhausting than the classic route from Val d'Ayas, the panorama along the route is better and finally some delicate and technical passages can be avoided.

One of the twin names coming from the classic mythology symbolizing friendship: Castor&Pollux are two beautiful twin peaks bounded by their eternal closeness. The climb to these two peaks will allow you to enjoy some of the most beautiful landscapes in the Alps, between Italy and Switzerland.
Both climbs do not present any special technical difficulties and the small ridges to be crossed along the route are funny and the summit will reward you with a great the panorama: you will admire the whole Breithorn group, the Matterhorn, the Gran Combin, the Mont Blanc chain, the Gran Paradiso and the nearest Western and Eastern Lyskamm as well as the main peaks of Monte Rosa with Punta Dufour and Nordend, Punta Gnifetti, Punta Parrot and Pyramide Vincent: in short, an incomparable show that will reward all your efforts! To the north, the panorama opens on the Swiss mountains of Valais, while on the south you can see Monviso (Piedmont).

Program

Climb of Pollux Program

Day 1
CERVINIA - PLATEAU ROSA (2800 mt) - MATTERHORN MOUNTAIN GUIDES HUT (3480 mt)

Meeting with the mountain guide in the early afternoon in Cervinia. After a short material check, you will take the cable car to reach Plateau Rosa and the Rifugio Guide del Cervino where yo will have dinner and spend the night.

Day 2
MATTERHORN MOUNTAIN GUIDES HUT - POLLUX (4084 mt) - PLATEAU ROSA - CERVINIA

Wake up early in the morning and after a good breakfast you will start your crossing of Verra Glacier, direction Breithorn. You will then head towards Breithorn Pass, to cross the glacier below the Black Gate (Schwarztor) and you will then reach the last passage on the southwest ridge.
The descent will be along the same ascent route.
You will get back at Rifugio Guide del Cervino around lunch time: you can take a break and have a pasta, after that you will take the cable car from Plateau Rosa back to Cervinia again. 

Materiel

Mountaineering Technical Equipment 

  • Hiking Goretex shoes suitable to crampons
  • crampons
  • walking poles
  • iceaxe
  • helmet.

How to dress for Mountaineering

First layer on the skin:

  • (merino wool) thermal/breathable long sleeve
  • (merino wool) long thermal/breathable underwear
  • woolen warm socks

Second layer:

  • warm technical sweater
  • waterproof & windproof hiking pants

Third layer:

  • thin but warm duvet (to wear just in case of cold temperatures)

Last layer:

  • waterproof & windproof Goretex jacket

Important Additionals:

  • sleeping sheet for the hut
  • warm winter hat
  • buff/head-neckband
  • warm winter gloves
  • headlamp
  • suncream (protection factor 50+)
  • sunglasses
  • camera

If you have any doubts or simply need clarification on what gear to take for your climb, you can take a look at our Blog page "What gear for mountaineering?"

N.B. Consider a change for when you are back to the hut (you can leave some stuff at the hut).

Level

Difficulty of the climb of Pollux

Well-trained hikers or trekkers looking for new perspectives: the climb of Pollux requires being being comfortable at walking with crampons, it is necessary to have resistance to about 8 hours of walk and a good acclimation to altitude, given the stay to above 3500 mt. It is recommended to train yourself appropriately and climb at altitude at least once before this climb.

Useful infos

Useful information to plan your mountain trip

Meeting point on the first day

Meet the guide at the Crevinia cable car ticket office at 15:00. You will meet the Guide in Cervinia at the departure point of the cable car to Plateau Rosa at 3 pm, to take the last lift at 3.30 pm.

Click here to see the map.

End of the mountaineering course

Disappearance of the group on the second day at the end of the day at about 4 pm in Cervinia.


Organisation

The week before your departure, you will receive a reminder by email with all the information concerning the meeting and the guide in charge of your group.

Esprit Montagne / Esprit des Guides SA takes care of the hut reservation, you do not need to think about it.


Guiding

French and English speaking local UIAGM mountain guide from our team.


Insurance

Cancellation and repatriation insurance is mandatory, as is mountain search and rescue insurance (minimum cover of 10,000 Euros).

Esprit Montagne offers the following insurance: https://www.assurance-multi-sports.com.


Advice on hiring equipment (crampons, harness, ice axe) and mountaineering boots:

As far as mountaineering boots are concerned, here are the types of boots you should have: Scarpa Triolet GTX
You can rent the equipment, and the shoes if needed, at Gal Sport in Aosta, at Le Pilier du Sport in Morgex, at Pellissier Sport in Valtournenche or at Ravanel or Snell in Chamonix.


How to reach Aosta Valley?

  • Via Chamonix Mont Blanc – you can reach Chamonix by train from the main French airports or from Geneva airport – then you can reach Courmayeur – Aosta Valley through the Mont Blanc Tunnel (there are buses connections from Chamonix to Aosta Valley, but if you would like to be free to move it is advisable to rent a car).
  • Via Geneva or Martigny – you can easily reach Martigny by train from Geneva airport - then you reach Aosta city center via the tunnel of Grand Saint Bernard (there are buses connections from Martigny to Aosta Valley, but if you would like to be free to move it is advisable to rent a car).
  • Via Milan/Turin airport
  • Or via Bourg Saint Maurice (73700, France) - Col du Petit Saint Bernard - you can reach Bourg Saint Maurice by train from the main French airports. Once in Bourg Saint Maurice you will need to rent a car to reach the Aosta Valley via the Col du Petit Saint Bernard (2 hours drive). It's a slightly longer trip but you can save the toll at the Mont Blanc Tunnel.

If you are coming only for the climb, we can organize you a taxi to pick you up or the mountain guide can come to pick you up on the road nearby Aosta (organization upon booking).


Public transports Aosta Valley


Bus to the Gressoney Valley

The departure point of the bus for the Gressoney Valley is at the train station in the village of Pont Saint Martin.
For the bus timetable: https://www.vitagroup.it/wp-content/uploads/2022/06/estivo-gressoney-2022.pdf


Food

  • Half board treatment at the refuge
  • Lunch and drinks are at your own charge
  • before departure, remember to bring food / snacks for the ascent according to your own tastes (cereal bars, dried fruit, chocolate, etc.)


Budget and currency

Italy is in the Eurozone, so the currency is the Euro (€).
The shelter has a credit card terminal, however, we strongly advise you to bring cash!


Car sharing

When you register online, you can choose whether or not you wish to take part in the car-sharing scheme to get to the starting point of your course. Once you have made your booking, you can log back into your Esprit Montagne account to access a section dedicated to carpooling. Here you will find the contacts of the other participants who are interested in car-sharing, so that you can contact them directly.

The budget for the Pollux climb

THE PRICE INCLUDES

. The guiding of an experienced mountain guide of our team, plus his/her accommodation and meal expenses

. Cable car tickets from Cervinia to Plateau Rosa for yourself

. Half board to the hut for yourself and the guide

. The use of equipment for the group (ropes, pitons, karabiners)

 

THE PRICE DOES NOT INCLUDE

. Personal technical equipment: crampons, harness and ice axe rental in case of need (it can be organized upon booking)

. Lunches, snacks and drinks for your self and the guide, in order to allow you to eat what you prefer

. All what is not explicitly mentioned in "The price includes"

Any question?

Contact us

You will also love

More information about the Castor and Pollux mountains:

The Pollux is a peak in the Pennine Alps located on the border between the canton of Valais and the autonomous region of the Aosta Valley, near the Castor. The Pollux reaches an altitude of 4,092 metres, between the Breithorn massif and the Lyskamm.

If you want to know more about the Breithorn and the Lyskamm, don't look here!

The Beaver is the higher of the two twins at 4223 metres, and is located between the Breithorn and Monte Rosa. According to Greek mythology, these two peaks are named after the Dioscuri (young people of military age who protect the population and especially the sailors).

Discover our two-day programme at the Beaver!

You can also read our guides that will accompany you!