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Monte Rosa Massif

Climb of Castor 4226 mt.

Technical lev. : 4 / 5

Technical lev. : 4 / 5

Maximum 3 depending on the course and mountain conditions.
You should be comfortable in mountain walking and varied terrain. Easy crampons walking on glacier.
If you have already done a glacier hike it is better but it is not mandatory: if you have good shape and good mental handling, you should have no problem.
Learning of hiking progression in High Mountain, for rather easy races and easy rescue techniques.
Example of level: an easy 4000, such as Gran Paradiso (4061 mt) - Gran Paradiso National Park

Physical lev. : 4 / 5

Physical lev. : 4 / 5

For trained sporty people. Effort corresponding to approximately 1200 - 1700m of elevation gain in trekking.
For mountaineering: even if the vertical drop is less significant, staying at high altitude for several days will have a significant effect on your usual physical performance.

  • 2 days
  • Participants : max 3
  • Mid June mid September
  • All included in hut

You will admire the whole Breithorn group, the Matterhorn, the Gran Combin, the Mont Blanc chain, the Gran Paradiso and the nearest Western and Eastern Lyskamm as well as the main peaks of Monte Rosa with Punta Dufour and Nordend, Punta Gnifetti, Punta Parrot and Pyramide Vincent: in short, an incomparable show!

From 580

Dates & Prices



Price *


Du 16/06/2023 au 17/06/2023

au 17/06/2023



Du 26/06/2023 au 27/06/2023

au 27/06/2023


Bookings in progress

Du 03/07/2023 au 04/07/2023

au 04/07/2023


Bookings in progress

Du 10/07/2023 au 11/07/2023

au 11/07/2023


Confirmed in 2 signup/s

Du 17/07/2023 au 18/07/2023

au 18/07/2023



Du 20/07/2023 au 21/07/2023

au 21/07/2023


Bookings in progress

Du 22/07/2023 au 23/07/2023

au 23/07/2023


Bookings in progress

Du 24/07/2023 au 25/07/2023

au 25/07/2023


Bookings in progress

Du 29/07/2023 au 30/07/2023

au 30/07/2023


Bookings in progress

Du 31/07/2023 au 01/08/2023

au 01/08/2023


Bookings in progress

Du 03/08/2023 au 04/08/2023

au 04/08/2023



Du 07/08/2023 au 08/08/2023

au 08/08/2023


Bookings in progress

Du 14/08/2023 au 15/08/2023

au 15/08/2023


Bookings in progress

Du 17/08/2023 au 18/08/2023

au 18/08/2023



Du 21/08/2023 au 22/08/2023

au 22/08/2023


Bookings in progress

* Price per person (without insurance)

Dates available on demand.

The price for the ascent of Castor:

  • 580 € per person, if the group is composed of 3 people;
  • 720 € per person, if the group is composed of 2 people;
  • 1120 € if one person on the group.



Ascent to Castor 4226 mt

One of the twin names coming from the classic mythology symbolizing friendship: Castor&Pollux are two beautiful twin peaks bounded by their eternal closeness. The climb to these two peaks will allow you to enjoy some of the most beautiful landscapes in the Alps, between Italy and Switzerland.
Both climbs do not present any special technical difficulties and the small ridges to be crossed along the route are funny and the summit will reward you with a great the panorama: you will admire the whole Breithorn group, the Matterhorn, the Gran Combin, the Mont Blanc chain, the Gran Paradiso and the nearest Western and Eastern Lyskamm as well as the main peaks of Monte Rosa with Punta Dufour and Nordend, Punta Gnifetti, Punta Parrot and Pyramide Vincent: in short, an incomparable show that will reward all your efforts! To the north, the panorama opens on the Swiss mountains of Valais, while on the south you can see Monviso (Piedmont).

Castor (4,226 mt) and Pollux (4084) together form the Twin Massif. They can be reached either from the west side or from the southeast side, starting respectively from Cervinia or Gressoney.


The Program for climbing Castor

Day 1 Gressoney - Colle di Bettaforca (2727 mt) - Rifugio Quintino Sella (3585 mt)

Vertical drop and length: + 850 metres and about 3 to 4 hours of climbing.

Meeting with the mountain guide at 9:00 am in Staffal, Gressoney. After a short material check, you will take the cable car to reach the Colle di Bettaforca. It will then take you about three hours walk to reach Rifugio Quintino Sella, where you will dine and sleep.

Day 2 Rifugio Quintino Sella - Castor (4226 mt) - Gressoney

Vertical drop and length of time: +640 m; -1500 m and about 2.5 hours uphill; 4/5 hours downhill

After a good breakfast, you will begin your climb up the Felik Glacier, heading north towards Punta Perazzi, reaching therefore Felik Pass. After that, the climb to the top of Punta Felik begins and from there on you will follow the route going up and down on a funny ridge ,to finally get to the top of Castor. The descent will be along the same ascent route.
You will get back at Rifugio Quintino Sella around lunch time: you can rest for a moment and have a pasta and then start your descent to Bettaforca Pass, where you will take the cable car again to go back to Staffal, Gressoney.


Mountaineering Technical Equipment

  • Hiking Goretex shoes suitable to crampons
  • crampons
  • walking poles
  • iceaxe
  • helmet.

How to dress for Mountaineering

First layer on the skin:

  • (merino wool) thermal/breathable long sleeve
  • (merino wool) long thermal/breathable underwear
  • woolen warm socks

Second layer:

  • warm technical sweater
  • waterproof & windproof hiking pants

Third layer:

  • thin but warm duvet (to wear just in case of cold temperatures)

Last layer:

  • waterproof & windproof Goretex jacket

Important Additionals:

  • sleeping sheet for the hut
  • warm winter hat
  • buff/head-neckband
  • warm winter gloves
  • headlamp
  • suncream (protection factor 50+)
  • sunglasses
  • camera

N.B. Consider a change for when you are back to the hut (you can leave some stuff at the hut).


Level needed for climbing Castor

Well-trained mountaineers of an average level, in search of new perspectives. You will need to have a good level of fitness, good sense of balance and the ability to walk on rough terrain. 
It is necessary to have a resistance to about 5/8 hours of walking a day and a good acclimatization to the high altitude as you will be staying at above 3500 mt. It would be advisable for you to properly train and to climb a 4000 peak at least once before leaving for this Tour.

Useful infos

Useful information to prepare your mountain trip:

Meeting on the first day

Meeting with the mountain guide in Staffal (Gressoney) at the departure of the Gabiet cable car at 9:00 a.m. 

End of the trip

The programme ends on the second day between 2:00 pm and 4:00 pm in Staffal (Gressoney).


The week before your departure, you will receive a reminder by email with all the information concerning the meeting and the guide in charge of your group.

Esprit Montagne / Esprit des Guides SA takes care of the hut reservation, you do not need to think about it.


French and English speaking local UIAGM mountain guide from our team.

How to reach Aosta Valley

  • Via Chamonix Mont Blanc – you can reach Chamonix by train from the main French airports or from Geneva airport – then you can reach Courmayeur – Aosta Valley through the Mont Blanc Tunnel (there are buses connections from Chamonix to Aosta Valley, but if you would like to be free to move it is advisable to rent a car).
  • Via Geneva or Martigny – you can easily reach Martigny by train from Geneva airport - then you reach Aosta city center via the tunnel of Grand Saint Bernard (there are buses connections from Martigny to Aosta Valley, but if you would like to be free to move it is advisable to rent a car).
  • Via Milan/Turin airport – rent a car directly to reach Aosta via the highway
  • Or via Bourg Saint Maurice (73700, France) - Col du Petit Saint Bernard - you can reach Bourg Saint Maurice by train from the main French airports. Once in Bourg Saint Maurice you will need to rent a car to reach the Aosta Valley via the Col du Petit Saint Bernard (2 hours drive). It's a slightly longer trip but you can save the toll at the Mont Blanc Tunnel.

Public transports Aosta Valley

Bus to the Gressoney Valley

The departure point of the bus for the Gressoney Valley is at the train station in the village of Pont Saint Martin.
For the bus timetable:

If you are coming only for the climb, we can organize you a taxi to pick you up or the mountain guide can come to pick you up on the road nearby Aosta (organization upon booking).

Accommodation in Staffal:

For those who wish to sleep in Staffal in the evening before returning to the Guide we recommend the Walsertal Residence, a very nice and cozy hotel, two minutes from the cable car departure.

Sports shops for specific equipment rental:

You can rent equipment at Ermanno Sport in Staffal, directly at the departure of the cable car: remember to contact the shop in advance to book your equipment.

Advice for hiring mountaineering boots:

Regarding mountaineering boots, here is the type of boots you should have: Scarpa Triolet GTX
You can rent them at Gal Sport in Aosta or at Ravanel or Snell in Chamonix.


We recommend to have your own personal travel insurance, covering accident abroad and repatriation.


Your budget for the ascent of Castor


. The guiding of an experienced UIAGM mountain guide of our Team

. The use of equipment for the group (ropes, pitons, karabiners)

. Cable car tickets from Gressoney to Col di Bettaforca for yourself

. Half board to the hut for yourself and the guide



 . Personal technical equipment: crampons, harness and ice axe rental in case of need (it can be organized upon booking)

. Lunches, snacks and drinks for your self and the guide, in order to allow you to eat what you prefer

. All what is not explicitly mentioned in "The price includes"

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